Al Fast-Food della società: un ricordo della tribù urbana dei Paninari milanesi
Mentre altri movimenti giovanili urbani come il punk e la new wave erano definiti dalle loro caratteristiche di identità anarchica, i paninari indossavano i loro status symbol – ed erano coloratissimi, fortemente marchiati e messi insieme in modo molto italiano. A differenza della cultura underground dei movimenti coesistenti, il loro bighellonare intorno alle paninoteche milanesi, con ai piedi delle Timberland che poggiavano con nonchalance sulle Vespa, è stata una performance rumorosa e orgogliosa. Questi giovani coraggiosi si sono distinti sartorialmente contro il grigiore della vita urbana e le lotte politiche che avevano colpito l’Italia di metà secolo, imponendo una grande attenzione al processo di individualizzazione… collettiva. Uno dei più interessanti fenomeni neo-tribali degli Anni Ottanta.
Paninari: The Italian Originators of Fast Food in Fashion
We trace the history of a forgotten 1980s Milanese movement which prescribed eating burgers and wearing puffer jackets to represent forward-facing cool
The pairing of brightly coloured Moncler puffer jackets with blue turned-up Levi’s 501s and Timberland boots is a sartorial hybrid if ever there was one, and it’s perhaps not a combination you’d expect to gel. In 1980s Italy, however, it formed the basis of a distinctive look created by a group of middle and upper-class Milanese teenagers called the paninari, and it soon spread throughout the whole of Italy to become a fully fledged style subculture. As less regulated markets instigated a meteoric rise in consumerism, these youths strove to distinguish themselves as living in the fast lane, with access to global brands at their fingertips. Alongside the political backdrop of Reagonomics and Thatcherism, Berlusconi transmitted messages of consumerism across Italy via his new business venture, the television. Italian adolescents were targeted with American movies, sitcoms and cartoons, which became extraordinarily popular as they were diffused through private (and legally ambiguous) TV channels such as Italia 1.
This, in turn, influenced their style: while other urban youth movements like punk and new wave were defined by their anarchistic identity signatures, the paninari donned their own status symbols – and they were brightly coloured, heavily branded, and thrown together in a very Italian fashion. Unlike the underground culture of coexisting movements, their loitering around Milanese sandwich shops, Timberland-booted feet resting nonchalantly upon Vespas, was a loud and proud performance. These bold youths made a sartorial stand against the drabness of urban life and political strife that had hit mid-century Italy, commanding a great deal of attention in the process. Their legacy lives on in the form of a Pet Shop Boys song – and they most certainly earned it.
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